Etiquette Throwback: 1935, Table Service and Decoration
We visit Lilian M. Gunn's Table Service and Decoration for a look into table settings and service from the 16th century, Elizabethan era, and the 17th century.
The Development of Table Service
When Lizzie’s mother, Tricia Post, cleaned out her office she dropped off a box of etiquette books for Lizzie to comb through. In the box was a delightful little green book by Lilian M. Gunn titled Table Service and Decoration. A simple book, Gunn describes different types of table service and settings that would be used with them, but she starts her book with a brief history of the development of table service. In an era where service at the table is a common experience for so many, here are some sections from this opening chapter that we found interesting. Gunn describes the development of the spoon-fork, and the fork itself.
*Please note, that grammar and spelling in the following excerpt follow early 20th century standards.
Chapter I
The Development of Table Service
pg. 12-14
SIXTEENTH CENTURY.— In the sixteenth century there was sometimes a fork-spoon used. A spoon was sawn into long teeth to serve the two purposes of flesh-fork and spoon. Some think that this is the origin of the table-fork, but the real source of the fork was in Italy about 1600. These forks for the most part were made of iron or steel, the silver fork being used only by the rich. The use of forks at table was long considered a superfluous luxury.
Italian dinners of the sixteenth century were divided into two parts, each consisting of two courses. Some courses came from the buffet, and some from the kitchen, which were served very hot. These hot dishes were carried straight to the carver and were served immediately. The dinner commenced with a course from the buffet. A course sometimes comprised at least twenty dishes and sometimes thirty. The sweetmeats, fruits and confectionery were passed after the removal of the table-cloth. A dinner of this kind often lasted three or four hours.
ELIZABETHAN ERA.—All through the centuries, even up to the magnificent days of Elizabeth and Shakespear, roast meat was brought to the table on a spit. The servant held it while the guest cut off a piece, which was eaten with the fingers and often without a plate. The meat was placed on thick slices of bread.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.—During the seventeenth century, the greatest change took place in the table manners of the people, brought about by the introduction of forks. In relation to table conventions a social usage generally, one might date all history as B.F., or A.F.—Before Forks, or After Forks.
Count us in the camp of people who are supremely glad the term “flesh-fork” didn’t stick around too long. (Phew!) Gunn’s description of Sixteenth Century Italian dinners has us wondering what the 20-30 buffet dishes in the first course looked like and if they resemble any of the courses that Italian dining is famous for today.
It was surprising to hear of diners in the Elizabethan era even in homes that had servants not using utensils or plates as they ate roasted meats. We’re all for dig-in foods that have us using our hands (ahhh the delicacy that is barbecue ribs) but no plate?! We nearly gasped.
But it was Gunn’s description of history coming down to two eras B.F., and A.F., Before Forks and After Forks, that won us over and cracked us up! It also had us happy to be living in the A.F. era.
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We hope you enjoyed today’s throwback to the tables of old. We’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments, remember the Monday comment thread is open to both Free and Paid Community Membership subscriptions.
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Until next time!
Take care,
Lizzie and Dan
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