Etiquette Throwback: 1935, Lilian M. Gunn, Table Service and Decoration, English Service
Lilian M. Gunn describes mid 1930's use of English Service for a dinner.
Lilian M. Gunn, Table Service and Decoration, English Service
We so often think of English things as being more formal and proper than American ones; hearing Lilian Gunn describe English Service’s focus on hospitality over formality made us sit up and pay attention with rapt interest.
*Please note that grammar and spelling in the following excerpt follow 20th century standards.
Chapter VII
ENGLISH SERVICE
Hospitality, rather than formality, is emphasized in English Service and for this reason many prefer to use it.
FOOD SERVED FROM THE TABLE.— All the food is served from the table, generally by the host and hostess, who in this way give their personal attention to the wants of their guests.
This style admits of very tasteful arrangement of family qualities.
The meat is carved by the host, and the vegetables served by the hostess or some member of the family.
English serving does not mean that the services of the waitress are dispensed with, for after the food is placed on the plates by the members of the family, the maid may place the plates for the guests and also pass the accompaniments of the course. Or, if the meal is informal, these accompaniments may be placed on the table and passed by the guests.
ONE COURSE AT A TIME.—In this service, one course at a time is served, and the main sfood and its accompaniment are removed before the next course is brought in.
PLACING THE PLATES.—The plates may be placed one at a time by the waitress, for the host to fill, after he has finished carving, or they may be all placed in a pile at his left where he may conveniently reach them, and placed one at a time in front of him to be filled.
SERVING VEGETABLES— After the host has served the first portion, the waitress takes the plate and places it before the one serving the vegetables, and when they are served, the plate is placed for the guest, observing the same order around the table as for any form of serving.
If a second serving is desired, the waitress takes the plate and places it in convenient position for refilling.
DESIRABLE FOODS.— Some of the foods which are particularly desirable for English service are roast birds, beef surrounded by fanconia potatoes, fillet of beef, planked foods such as steak, fish or chicken, a crown roast of lamb, a baked fish, etc.
DESSERTS.— The desserts which seem particularly appropriate for this type of service are molded gelatine mixtures garnished with whipped cream and fruit, and all kinds of molded ice cream and ices; any dessert in fact in which the attractiveness of the dish makes its service at the table a pleasing feature of the meal.
AFTER DINNER COFFEE.—Perhaps the course which is most attractive when served English style is the after-dinner coffee. Many sets in silver and china are now made for this purpose. The cups, saucers, spoons, the sugar bowl, and the graceful coffee pot may be arranged on a tray and set before the hostess. The waitress may place the cups after they are filled, or the hostess may informally pass them to her guests.
Oh my, doesn’t that sound nice? Far from the stuffy or even ‘welcoming but precise’ imagery that the thought of English manners evoke at the dinner table, Gunn paints a picture of a hybrid between what we today would call a “family meal” and one that utilizes staff (if available) and formality. The table items are served and passed by the host and hostess, yet the maid is still there to help with condiments, accouterment, and second servings.
One of the images we like the most is that of the host serving and plating the meal. Even if Gunn likely imagined this dinner taking place in a formal dining room with a maid, she stays true to her opening statement of hospitality being the focus and staying connected to caring for one’s guests.
As a final thought, while Gunn does mention the tasks for a maid to carry out throughout the section, we felt that much like in Emily’s work, she makes it seem possible for any host, even if you don’t have the silver, china or the maid simply by saying things like, “Or, if the meal is informal, these accompaniments may be placed on the table and passed by the guests.”
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We hope you enjoyed a look back at Lilian M. Gunn’s depiction of English Service for dinner. Have you hosted a dinner party recently? Whether it was formal or casual, tell us about it in the comments. Can’t post here because you aren’t a Community Member yet? Head over to Monday’s podcast post, where comments are open to all.
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Take care,
Lizzie and Dan
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